Do any of you get your Dog Obedience on?

boatBurner

shutup, crime!
Feb 24, 2012
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I'm the owner of a seven month-old chocolate lab. He's wild as all hell, but a good chicken fucker.

He's got a few issues, nothing insane or unusual, such as some outside barking, gets into the trash can from time to time, annoys the shit out of us when we're eating. These are behavioral things that can be corrected with consistency, but I'm reading myself in on some good steps to take to insuring a dog with good manners.

Shock collars? I know some people get butt hurt about these, but I've been told they're effective. Any other dog owners have some good tips?

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You don't need a shock collar to improve behavior. Just a lot of time and patience. I have a mixed doxon and they can be a pain when it comes to listening but I would never use a shock collar to teach him behavior. Get a few dvds or you can hire an instructor. I did the latter and don't regret the money spent.

Good luck, labs are awesome but I know they can be extremely energetic.
 
With rare exceptions, dogs can be trained to behave in any manner you want. Positive reinforcement (treats, games, petting, praise, walks, etc.) works better in the long run than negative reinforcement (striking, yelling, leash-pulling, crating as punishment, etc.).

Dogs typically want to follow a pack leader. The key is making sure your mutt knows you're his leader. If you have kids, make sure he knows they are above him in the pack hierarchy. If he questions it, you're doing something wrong. Dogs are a bit like kids in that they need to know where they stand and where the line is. Lay down the rules and deliver feedback when your dog violates them.

Remember, you're his master. He wants to please you, not piss you off.

On a personal note, we get compliments on my dog's behavior on a weekly basis. We take him everywhere, from parks to coffee shops. People are literally floored by how responsive my guy is to us. The amazing thing is, they seem to think he's naturally inclined to behave. He's not. We just poured ourselves into training him.

Regarding shock collars, I can't say they don't work. But I also can't speak to their long-term effects, including effectiveness, the dog's temperament, etc. My style has always been to use positive reinforcement and be as clear and consistent as possible. That also means controlling his interaction with strangers. For example, I don't allow people to encourage him to jump on them. That might make me a dictator, but my dog is one of the best-behaved mutts around.

It takes a lot of work, though.
 
With rare exceptions, dogs can be trained to behave in any manner you want. Positive reinforcement (treats, games, petting, praise, walks, etc.) works better in the long run than negative reinforcement (striking, yelling, leash-pulling, crating as punishment, etc.).

Dogs typically want to follow a pack leader. The key is making sure your mutt knows you're his leader. If you have kids, make sure he knows they are above him in the pack hierarchy. If he questions it, you're doing something wrong. Dogs are a bit like kids in that they need to know where they stand and where the line is. Lay down the rules and deliver feedback when your dog violates them.

Remember, you're his master. He wants to please you, not piss you off.

On a personal note, we get compliments on my dog's behavior on a weekly basis. We take him everywhere, from parks to coffee shops. People are literally floored by how responsive my guy is to us. The amazing thing is, they seem to think he's naturally inclined to behave. He's not. We just poured ourselves into training him.

Regarding shock collars, I can't say they don't work. But I also can't speak to their long-term effects, including effectiveness, the dog's temperament, etc. My style has always been to use positive reinforcement and be as clear and consistent as possible. That also means controlling his interaction with strangers. For example, I don't allow people to encourage him to jump on them.

And I suppose much of this I've read, or been told previously, but I'm needing a little refresher. He's a great dog, great with the kids, but he just has a few flaws that I'm unsure how to correct.

Have any actionable steps you've taken to correcting something like begging at dinner, getting into the trash, or barking outside?
 
Shock collars are for people who are retarded at dog training, and shouldn't own a dog in the first place.

begging at dinner
Don't give him food under the table, or scraps of your food, and don't let anyone else give it to him either. That's the absolute #1 reason dogs beg at tables.
getting into the trash
Common with male dogs. Vinegar by the bins should work, as should a little lion/tiger manure.
barking outside?
Not totally sure on this, as I use my dog partially as a burglar alarm, so haven't spent too much time looking into it. However, a look outside to verify that there actually is/was someone out there, followed by a firm "Enough" and hand gesture, then making them sit, and then giving them a stroke helps. If you're having difficulty distracting them enough to make them sit, then banging your hand on a door/wall helps. (I think Cesar Millan said to make sure that they can't see you do that though)
 
Have any actionable steps you've taken to correcting something like begging at dinner, getting into the trash, or barking outside?

There are a few ways to approach these issues. I'll tell you how we approached similar issues in our guy. One quick note: try to figure out what is prompting the behavior in the first place. For example, if he's begging, does he get enough food (not to sate his hunger, but for proper nutrition and energy)? If he's barking, are there cats that keep sitting on the edge of your fence? Dealing with the trigger may resolve the issue.

Begging at dinner: our guy occasionally whined when we ate. We took an approach similar to the one used by Cesar Millan - immediately using a short, consonant-laced sound ("tchst!!") and placing two fingers firmly on the back of his neck. The fingers are merely a reminder, not a punishment. We did this whenever he whined, whether at dinner, for attention, or nervousness. It worked like a charm.

Barking: this is a little more complex since dogs bark for a lot of reasons: boredom, fear, communicating with other dogs, etc. Our guy was never a huge barker, but was sometimes vocal. We used a similar tactic to that described above. But we also make sure he gets a ton of exercise. And we play games that stimulate him mentally. These days, his barking is limited to once or twice when someone unfamiliar to him is outside the door. We don't want to discourage his instinct to protect his den and pack. So, we say "enough" and pet him quickly to let him know "well done." He takes cues from our behaviors, including our responses to strangers.

Digging through trash: we never had a problem with this. Nor have any of the dogs I've owned. So, I can't speak from experience.

Hope the above gives you some food for thought. I'm off to get some work done.
 
People will say don't use shock collars, but they work. It worked well for my pit. However, don't just stick the thing on the dog and start zapping. I zapped myself first (many times actually) to find a setting that wouldn't actually hurt the dog, but would get their attention. I figure if it doesn't hurt me it won't hurt my dog.
 
I personally think that all dogs should have a cage, bed, or something in the house that is their own, just theirs.

I have cages for both of my dogs, they love them and get real defensive when other dogs go in there, cause it's their space. I haven't shut the door on either of them in years, they're allowed to roam the house all day.

I did use the cage a lot while training..if they're bad, don't hit them (or anything else that would hurt them, ex. shock collar), ever. Use a stern voice that shows your in control, and put them in the cage. Let them out a relatively short period later, 30 minutes to an hour at max. Make sure if the dog ever does something good, you reward it and let the dog know that. positive reinforcement, like stated above, is a million times more effective than negative. Also, play with the dog...A LOT, most important part of training dogs. They won't listen if they have too much energy, so play like crazy and let them know when it's play time and when it's not. Love the dog, make the dog strive to impress you every day, not get you upset.

As for the food thing, thats training again. My dogs go lay in certain spots in the house where they know they wont get in trouble for begging during eating times. They both get a lot of table food also, not scraps. Every morning I cook the dogs an egg or two each.


It really comes down to taking the time to train the dog. The biggest thing is not to be mean, and make the dog love you and know you're the leader. Once those two things happen the dog will do anything for you.
 
I'm actually probably going to start a blog soon chronicling my training experience with my relatively new pup. I definitely recommend going the positive reinforcement route, specifically clicker training. You really need to understand the underlying science of it though, not just the process.

Start here: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Dont-Shoot-Dog-Teaching-Training/dp/0553380397]Don't Shoot the Dog!: The New Art of Teaching and Training: Karen Pryor: 9780553380392: Amazon.com: Books[/ame]

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I'm actually probably going to start a blog soon chronicling my training experience with my relatively new pup. I definitely recommend going the positive reinforcement route, specifically clicker training. You really need to understand the underlying science of it though, not just the process.

Start here: Don't Shoot the Dog!: The New Art of Teaching and Training: Karen Pryor: 9780553380392: Amazon.com: Books

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I actually created a home made clicker with the lid of a gerber jar and a shaker by putting some kibble in the jar and shaking it with the lid closed. Hes good at "tricks", but mine is an undrstanding that isnt really complete, ive only read bits and pieces. Thanks for the book rec. Recommend any particular clickers?
 
I actually created a home made clicker with the lid of a gerber jar and a shaker by putting some kibble in the jar and shaking it with the lid closed. Hes good at "tricks", but mine is an undrstanding that isnt really complete, ive only read bits and pieces. Thanks for the book rec. Recommend any particular clickers?

I have this one: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/StarMark-Clicker-Dog-Training-System/dp/B000FMDIL6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345666374&sr=8-1&keywords=clicker]Amazon.com: StarMark Clicker Dog Training System: Pet Supplies[/ame]

It doesn't really matter what you use, so long as it's:

1) loud
2) a unique sound
3) consistent

Also, tricks are fun and awesome, but my first goal is for rock solid obedience. Long distance down, recall off leash, etc.

This book is much more advanced (it's meant for people looking to enter obedience competitions) but it's damn good: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Clicker-Training-Obedience-Shaping-Performance-Positively/dp/0962401781/ref=sr_1_7?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1345666453&sr=1-7&keywords=training+obedience]Amazon.com: Clicker Training for Obedience: Shaping Top Performance-Positively (9780962401787): Morgan Spector: Books[/ame]
 
I have two mutts from the animal shelter. One was too scared of the clicker for training so we just make a clicking sound to signal a correct behavior and follow up with a treat. Putting my hand facing up gets them to sit down, turning it over makes them lay down, showing your hand like a stop gesture makes them stay while I walk around the house and come back, then click and give a treat. They then do it without a treat.

Works great.

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Have to agree with everything Jake, Joe, Dchuk and Shindig said. It should be all about positive reinforcement. Shock collars, choke chains, reverse spiked collars, and such devices should never be used. Raising your voice should be enough to get your dog's attention. We've done some clicker training, some obedience class training as well as agility classes. It's good to have controlled interaction with other people and dogs.

Labs are den dogs and having a crate for them is comforting and it's a place they will go for peace and quiet. You can also send them there if they are being a problem, like at the dinner table for example.
 
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Shock collars are an excellent idea, and should be mandatory for chavs who own staffordshire bull terriers, and mistreat them to turn a lovely animal into a dangerous, unhappy beast.

I don't think they're suitable for dogs though.
 
I have a 3 year old lab that has anxiety issues beyond what most people could imagine. She was taken away from her family at 4 weeks, because she was sick and the breeder was a tard. We have learned a lot and would never take a dog at that age again for his own well being. We currently have her in Acupuncture treatment to try and get her to calm down which has actually shown some very positive effects.

1. A choke chain when used CORRECTLY is not going to harm your dog in anyway. It simply gets their attention and requires that they snap out of whatever they are focused on and listen to you. There is absolutely no reason that your dog should be hurt from this collar unless you are being a retard. You should NOT need to maintain tension on the leash at all.

2. Shock Collars. Well we had to try this mainly because when we had our daughter Tila was just too anxious (jealousy). I don't like the collar and now that Dog and Child play well together we have eliminated the Shock Collar. The only reason we had it is because she completely blocked out everyone and wouldn't listen or react to anyone. We shocked her (at a lower setting) to get her to snap out of it. This was effective.

We run & play catch with Tila 2 times a day for an hour each session. We go over all the commands with her while we are out of the house.

Here are some things that might help.

DO NOT humanize your dog. No feeding from the table, no sleeping in your bedroom, don't talk to them like a human, give your commands sternly and do not repeat commands, etc.

Ignore your dog when you first get home or you'll have a problem with the door in future.

Train with your dog EVERY DAY, start with treats, eventually you won't need them. For running away... Leave the door open and attach a heavy fishing line.

One strong correction is better than 10 soft ones.

Black kongs and nylabones are your friends, forget everything else.

For brushing your dog use this: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/FURminator-deShed-Tool-Orange-Short/dp/B0040QW33W/ref=dp_ob_title_pet]FURminator deShed Tool Dog Med/Orange Short Hair: Amazon.com: Pet Supplies[/ame]

As others have said be very patient and repetitive.

For the garbage. You can use strong Vinegar on something that he/she likes from the garbage (that he shouldn't be eating), as he/she starts to eat it he will taste the vinegar and stop.

If you don't live in a place where it freezes. Get a water tap feeder so that he/she can get water whenever.

For really harsh corrections you can use a 2L coke bottle fill it about 1/4 of the way with black beans. Essentially your creating a rattle. Make sure you put the cap back on. Next time your dog is barking throw the bottle next to him/her. A few times of that and he won't do it again. Also you can try this with the garbage. Remember it's instinctive for them to do this. So also be sure that the barking you want is really necessary to eliminate. For example we only correct her when she barks at people walking past the front door. But when she barks in the back yard we don't say anything because we don't want people jumping the fence.

Certainly crate him/her. This will help with moving around in future and gives them a place they feel safe and secure in the house.